PWD bungalow at Beama
Flocks of women, checked my bags as I got down from my vehicle. There is a self imposed prohibition in these Brok-pa (Ladakhi word for Aryan or white skin) villages. The sarpanch had empowered the women-folk to ensure that no alcohol was brought from Leh by locals, tourists or outsiders. After a thorough frisking of my bag by three women resembling Greek Goddesses, they let me enter the PWD guest house. Here I met my first Aryan, the chowkidaar who went by the name of Sonam Thondup. He knew a smattering of Hindi and through a combination of sign language, body language, eye movements and facial expressions, I tried to create rapport with this hostile Aryan, who told me in no uncertain terms, that my visit to Dah in September, was not welcome. I was the only occupant of the PWD guest house and I handed over my inner line permit and letter from the collector Mr. Satish Nehru, to Thondup. He reluctantly gave me the keys and after settling in my room, explored the immediate vicinity, but found few shops. The PWD guest house at Beema is located on the banks of the Indus and the view from my room was picturesque and the gurgling sound of the river was soothing music to my ears.